A rainy start to the day lowered our expectations for getting off the boat. Around lunch time there was a break in the clouds which enabled Roxy to get us moving. We hopped in the dinghy to the village at the point of land we rounded coming into the bay. A plan was hatched for me to hustle in an ask for permission to snorkel their reef. Right away four young boys eating coconuts and bananas ran up to me. They spoke a tiny bit of English and understood I wanted to see the chief.
It was a brisk walk with them calling “Papa!” Through a group of homes we went. No response and we continued past three really well organized and nice gardens, each about half a football field in size. Reaching another group of homes with sounds coming from the largest. Grandma was sitting outside and then rushed a pack of dogs. Barking like crazy. The boys led me to two ladies weaving under a tree and one of the little dogs nipped my calf. Huh, I’m not for a dog bite in Vanuatu. The boys and grandma yelled at the dogs and got them under control.
Still not chief, a woman came out to a bench and had me sit and wait. The kids ran up one hill, yelling and another with no response. A conversation filled the time, her husband is a teacher nearby. Teachers are on strike right now so I probed her a bit about the progress – not much. She kept apologizing for the delay, “No problem, I am happy to wait.” A little girl came out of the larger home with a big plate of food and offered it to me. Wow, how generous! I thanked them but explained I had just eaten. More waiting and finally a man arrived. We made introductions and then I asked permission to snorkel their reef. “Dive or snorkel?” Just snorkel, “Well there is a cost.” Back and forth we went, I had no money so it was more to learn the cost for later, but he never gave me a number. But I learned he is not the chief, so I think he was letting me know that snorkeling was not possible without the chief’s permission. No worries, I said my thank you and goodbye.
Oh well, no snorkel today. Instead, we popped corn and played a board game. A fun afternoon, even if it was different than planned.
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