After settling a bit around 1:15am the seas kicked up and made for a rough few hours. Coming on watch at 5am Roxy filled me in on the lower winds but ongoing wave action. A low-key morning all around with acceptance that we truly would be arriving much sooner than we expected on departure. Always good news, well it would be if we had our clearance to enter Vanuatu… Carl had been emailing forms for a few weeks with responses from Vanuatu officials but no official clearance form had arrived. Checking out in Fiji, SV Beluga gave us an additional email contact. Forms were resent before departure. Enroute we kept reaching out and getting responses asking for already submitted information and forms. Not easy with only slow Iridium Go data speeds. Then yesterday we talked to SV Beluga via VHF and asked if they could send an email via their Starlink. This too went unanswered. Ugh. Everyone we talked to said it was only a few hours and simple to get their clearance document.
Time ticked by, more emails, and still no response. We filled the rest of the day with reading, watching movies, and naps. It was fun to call land-ho when we came up to a small volcanic island. We still had a number of hours remaining but still exciting to see land again.
I had not yet read up on village customs of Vanuatu yet and since land was in sight there was no time to waste. I studied the Rocket Guide information, putting together the following summary for the group:
• Locals aways are the host, even on our boat.
• Don’t give gifts, to chief is okay (food, small)
• Trading is okay with those equal lower than you
• No alcohol ashore
• Some fees are charged for attractions or beaches
• Kids may grab or touch you
• Our body language/smiles are very important
• Don’t give money for gifts (fruit), but depending on the situation a t-shirt or gift may be appropriate
• If offered a fruit/coconut this could be an invitation to ask if other provisions are possible
• Cash can be given for provisions, should be similar price to Port Villa
• Offers of tea on the boat is appreciated and often results in tips for waterfalls/snorkeling
• If someone is aggressive in asking for alcohol or tobacco let the chief know
• If asked for money, ask which village they are from and if you are going to visit it, explain after visiting chief you would be willing to pay for provisions
• If invited to eat, avoid pig unless very well cooked, best to stick with fruits you peel
• Always bring mosquito repellent to shore
• A guide is needed for walking around, no need to pay just be friendly and respectful
• For inland travel, pay on return and before leaving ask the chief about how much to pay
• Don’t mix sexes when socializing
• Carvings (men) or mats/bowls (women) from villages help earn money
• Permission must be received to snorkel reef, swim blue holes, and can require money
• Assume you need to ask permission to go anywhere
• KEYS – Show respect, be modest and don’t display wealth, ask permission, use holding tanks, try to minimize cultural impact on villages
Around 10 miles to go we started to get nervous about what to do. Carl called into the fleet anchored in Port Resolution and we were given email addresses we already had plus a phone number to call. Once within five miles I was able to call and talked to Stanley (Port Resolution Yacht Club). I explained our challenges getting approval and that we were outside of the bay waiting. He explained that customs had already left for the day to the other side of the island. Ugh. I asked if he could call and ask permission for us and after a few calls back and forth, lots of anxious waiting until he passed along the approval to enter the bay and anchor with customs clearance tomorrow. Whew.
It felt great to get the anchor set but even better when shortly after we received our official arrival clearance paper with a stamp! It had been Carl and Roxy’s anniversary during the passage, and after cleaning the boat it was time to celebrate. We cracked open a bottle of champagne, had some snacks and toasted to a good passage and their 19 years together. Big smiles all around.
For dinner it was a group effort for grilled rib-eye (Carl), green beans (Roxy), and a salad plus mash potatoes (me). Bellies full we didn’t last long before our beds were calling.
First 24 hours 134.1 nm.
2nd 24 hours 168.0 (7nm/hr average)
3rd 24 hours 164.9 (6.9nm/hr average)
3.0 motor into anchorage
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